Well, Warmth Is Nice…

Particularly now, when anything that lifts us beyond winter’s grasp, even  just for one meal, is celebrated.  Few things are better at doing this than is a hearty pot of stew, steaming away happily on the kitchen stove.  The contentment even has spread to the title, as today’s entry is called Warmly-Spiced Saucy Lamb Stew.

This is one of the soup recipes Bon Appetit described in the October 2018 number.  Attentive long-time readers may recall the pork stew featured last (yes, “last”…all the back in 2019) October; today’s recipe is among them, and it probably won’t be the final offering, either.

To date, both suggestions have been excellent, providing satisfying immunity to the chill.  So far, so good.  There may be one more of these to savor before winter finishes with us.  Fair enough, as we’ve been tired of it for a month already.

Anyway, “Warmly-Spiced” is proper billing for this attempt, as the cinnamon, garlic and coriander all wrap the lamb – and the diner – in a snuggly, comforting blanket.  Cinnamon is particularly adept at this.  As the stew simmers, the cinnamon stick unfurls, releasing its soft glow.  When the broth was filtered, the ingredients left behind included a baffling rectangle.  Baffling, that is, until the aroma betrays its identity.

Though the recipe is presented as a non-specific lamb stew, it clearly is Near Eastern in inspiration.  There’s the lamb, of course, but clues much more direct than that are found among the garnishes that enhance the soup.  Harissa and chopped preserved lemons provide heat and a salty tang, respectively.  Mint leaves add freshness that contrasts so well with he lamb’s richness.  Certainly, this stew would be at home warding off the chill of a Levantine winter night.

Actually, the stew is non-specific in that its cold-defying properties aren’t limited to one geography.  No matter whether it’s enjoyed in Beirut or in Boston, today’s entry will envelop you in warmth.

*****

Warmly-Spiced Saucy Lamb Stew

• 6 lamb shanks (about five pounds, total)
• salt and freshly-ground pepper, to taste
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 2 large onions, cut into 1-inch wedges (*1)
• 2 heads garlic, halved crosswise
• 1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed
• 3 tablespoons harissa
• additional harissa, chopped preserved lemons and mint leaves, for garnish (*2)

Season lamb shanks with salt and pepper.  In a stockpot set over medium-high flame, heat the oil.  Working in batches, so as not to crowd the lamb, brown the shanks in the pot, turning as needed, until they’re seared all over, about 8 minutes per batch.  Transfer lamb to a separate plate after it’s browned.

Reduce the flame to medium and place the onions and garlic in the pot, cut side down.  Cook for about five minutes, flipping the onion pieces halfway through to sear the other cut side.

Add the cinnamon and crushed coriander and cook, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant, about a minute.  Add the harissa and cook, stirring frequently and scraping the pot bottom, until the harissa darkens slightly, about two minutes.

Pour in seven cups of water, and scrape the pot bottom again to release the flavors.  Season generously with salt and pepper, and bring o a simmer.  Return lamb to the pot and return to a simmer.  Cover, but with the lid slightly askew to allow steam to escape, and cook at a low simmer for about two hours.

Using tongs, transfer the lamb shanks to a cutting board, keeping the stew at a simmer.  Once the lamb has cooled enough to handle, cut the meat from the bone in bite-sized pieces.  Put the meat in a medium bowl and return the bones to the stockpot.  Simmer, uncovered, for another 30 minutes.

Turn off the flame and return the meat to the pot.  Let cool until the stew no longer steams.  Cover the pot and refrigerate for at least a few hours, ideally overnight.

Discard the fat that has risen to the surface.  Strain the now-cold broth through a cheesecloth, pressing firmly on the solids to release their essence.  Discard the bones, the cinnamon (the “baffling” rectangle!) and any residual fat, while returning the meat, onion and garlic to the stock.

Gently reheat the stock to a low simmer and ladle into individual portions.  Serve alongside harissa, chopped preserved lemons and mint leaves, for garnish.

NOTES:

1 – It’s possible, or you could go with four large shallots.

2 – Harissa is a common Near Eastern condiment, and may be found in larger stores’ “International” section, or online, of course.  If you don’t have it, a similar quantity of medium-hot salsa will do, though not quite as well.

Preserved lemons also are a staple, both in the Levant and elsewhere, though they may be harder to find if they’re not acquired online.  In a pinch, you can quarter a couple lemons, cut away the pith and the rind, and chop them.  Mix in a teaspoon of sugar and a tablespoon of salt.