The Mighty Walnut

As walnut trees are common in many parts of the Near Eat and particularly in forests throughout the Caucasus mountains, it’s not surprising the region’s people favor the flavorful nut the tree produces.  Today’s dish, Chicken with Walnut-Cilantro Sauce, is one way cooks in Georgia (the country, not the US state!) make good use of the bounty.

It turns out walnut sauce is quite popular in Georgia, appearing atop or alongside many dishes.  This affinity extends beyond the country’s borders, as neighboring Persians enjoy fesenjan, a walnut stew with a similar cast of ingredients.

The Georgian sauce is a bit thicker than is fesenjan, and coarsely-chopped walnuts are sprinkled on generously,adding crunch and a more diverse texture.  The flavors cover a broad range too, with sweet-tart pomegranate molasses providing a zing which dances playfully with the walnuts’ meaty richness.  A hot pepper or two is ground into the sauce as well, enlivening things with a spark.

When Milk Street described the preparation in its November-December 2018 issue, the opportunity to try something from a rather unfamiliar cuisine (Georgia’s) became irresistible.  The ingredients attracted interest too, as Western cooking usually limits walnuts to desserts or uses them as a salad topping.  Worthy options, to be sure, though the chance to bring walnuts front and center intrigued, as did their prominence in a savory dish.

Walnuts may be the star here, though cilantro has a good supporting role.  Not only does it garnish the chicken beautifully, but the leaves also are blended into the sauce, imparting a nice freshness.  Even before the sauce comes together, and prior to the chicken cooking, the bird is dry-rubbed with ground coriander (which, for those who didn’t know, is from cilantro seed pods).

These are the influences, yet walnuts set the sauce’s tone.  Just one taste, and it’s easy to understand why nearby Persians often make a meal of the sauce alone.  When added to poultry…absolutely divine!

*****

Georgian Chicken with Walnut-Cilantro Sauce

• 4 teaspoons ground coriander, divided
• salt, to taste
• 3 pounds bone in, skin-on chicken thighs
•  3 large garlic gloves, peeled
• 3 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 serrano chilies, stemmed and seeded
• 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, divided
• 3/4 cup fresh cilantro, lightly packed and divided
• 1 cup walnuts
• 1 and 1/4 cups chicken broth, divided
• 1 tablespoon grapeseed or other neutral oil

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees, with a rack at medium height.  Stir together2 tablespoons of the coriander and 1 1/2 tablespoons of salt and rub it on the chicken thighs.  Set them aside.

In a blender, combine the garlic, tomato paste, serranos, 2 tablespoons of the pomegranate molasses, 1/2 cup of the cilantro, remaining 2 teaspoons of the coriander, 3/4 cup of the walnuts, 1 teaspoon of the salt and 3/4 cup of the broth.  Puree until smooth.

Place a large skillet over a medium high flame.  Add the oil and heat until it barely begins to smoke, about 4 minutes.  Add the chicken, skin side down, in a single layer.  Cook undisturbed until the skin is crisp and golden-brown, about six minutes.  Transfer chicken to a plate and pour off the drippings.

Reduce flame to medium-low and return the skillet to the flame.  Pour in the remaining 1/2 cup of the broth, scraping up any browned bits.  Increase the flame to medium and add the walnut puree.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until it simmers.

Place the chicken back in the skillet, skin side up this time, and transfer to the oven.  Cook for about 15 minutes.

Transfer the chicken to a serving platter and let it rest for five minutes.  Spoon the sauce from the skillet over the chicken, sprinkle in the remaining walnut, garnish with pomegranate arils (*1) and cilantro, and serve.

NOTES:

1 – Which weren’t at the market when I bought groceries for today’s meal.  Pity, as they would have added a pop of color and flavor.  Mark my words, when I return later next week, the pomegranate arils will be back!  Naturally.