Something for the Holidays

When putting together a memorable gingerbread worthy of the high holidays (in one form or another), best to pack it full of flavorful spices exciting intrigue followed by a comforting warmth.  A great ally in this effort is a cup or so of Guinness Stout, effervescing the spices to unexpected heights while contributing a rich, mysterious,  toasty depth:

For today’s recipe, the Extra Stout variety was selected, an option Guinness classifies as being, “bittersweet.”  Sounds almost chocolate-like, as befits the deep, mesmerizing tastes playing in the shadows.  This cake recipe is a Christmas specialty of New York’s Gramercy Tavern and the legendary Gourmet printed instructions in its October 2002 issue.

Elsewhere in Gotham, the Times published directions for a lustrous, satiny Ermine Icing in its Cooking section, as well as online.  The frosting is light and fluffy like whipped cream, yet it has the substance and sophistication of vanilla buttercream icing.  As such, it’s a splendid compliment to the gingerbread’s spiced extravagance.

The original Gramercy version is baked in a bundt pan and features no topping, save a dusting of powdered sugar.  That’s nice, and quite emphasizes the cupboard-full of spices involved, yet it still seeks a certain balance.  Fortunately, ermine icing is available to smooth the edges and to wrap the cake’s expression beautifully in a blanket of silken creaminess.

The flavors owe their infinite sophistication to the stout, which sets the melody to an almost-chocolatey tune.   Not just any stout will do, though.  This recipe requires Guinness Extra Stout.  That “extra” is just what his cake needs to make it a memorable part of December festivities.

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Guinness Ginger Cake

• seeds from 6 cardamom pods (*1)
• 1 one-and-a-half inch cinnamon stick
• 3 whole peppercorns
• 1 whole clove
• 1 cup stout beer, such as Guinness (*2)
• 1 cup molasses
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 3 eggs
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/2 cup dark brown sugar
• 3/4 cup vegetable oil
• 2 cups flour
• 2 tablespoons ground ginger
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly-ground nutmeg
• pinch of salt
• 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

Preheat the oven to 350°.  Spritz a 9 inch-square baking pan with cooking spray.

Place the cardamom seeds, cinnamon stick, peppercorns and clove in a small skillet and place over a medium flame.  Cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about a minute.  Transfer to a spice grinder and process until finely powdered.

Pour the stout and the molasses into a large saucepan and place it over a high flame.  Bring to a boil, then remove from the flame.  Stir in the baking soda – the mixture will bubble vigorously at first. Set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl whisk together the eggs, and sugars, brown and white.  Whisk in the oil and the stout mixture.

In a large bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, ground ginger, salt and the toasted spices you processed.  Add the liquid contents from the medium bowl in two batches, whisking until combined.  Next, whisk in the freshly-grated ginger.

Pour the batter into the baking pan you prepared, then bake for 45 minutes.  Let cool on a wire rack for an hour, then frost with the Ermine Icing, recipe below.  Dust with powdered ginger if desired.

NOTES:

1 – This equals about half a tablespoon.

2 – You read the sermon.  Standard stout will do the job, but the “Extra” variety lends a chocolate-like depth to the season.

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Ermine Icing

• 5 tablespoons flour
• 1 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• pinch of salt
• 1 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 1 cup sugar

Place a small saucepan over a medium flame and pour in the milk and the flour.  Heat to a simmer, stirring frequently, until the mixture thicken almost to a pudding-like consistency.

Turn off the flame and whisk in the vanilla and salt.  Pour into a bowl to cool completely, and place plastic wrap on the surface to prevent a skin from forming.

In a mixer, cream together the butter and sugar until fluffy, about five minutes.  Reduce speed to medium and, with the mixer running, gradually pour in the flour-milk mixture.  Once combined, increase the mixer speed to high and whip until the icing is light and fluffy like whipped cream.