Thyme Well Spent

See what just happened there? Thyme=Time. Clever, huh?

However insipid, the sleight does make a larger point, namely, that when good cooking is given care and attention, it rewards the cook tenfold. Both in a delicious meal, and in dinner guests’ delight. In this endeavor, little is more satisfying than is risotto. A contentment Bon Appetit recognized when it featured Risotto with Mushrooms and Thyme in its February 2020 issue.

Creamy and soothing, risotto requires broth to be added slowly, a ladle at a time, until the rice absorbs the liquid. This process is repeated often and calls for patience and a tireless effort, but the investment is rewarded extravagantly. The rice is meltingly tender, yet it retains just enough of a snap to keep it interesting.

Then there’s the flavor. A deep, rich and complex taste which infuses the entire grain. A complete saturation only possible when things are taken slowly and with care. Just that much more satisfying when thyme is home-grown. sourced from the windowsill:

Which itself is an offshoot from the patch which flourished outside last summer:

Of course, mushrooms are the major factor in today’s dish. Really, in any dish, truth be told. They’re packed with rich, satiny umami which makes tasters forget their names for a blissful second. With each bite too. Then, to amplify that, today’s mushrooms are torn, not cut, creating crannies and peaks which hold even more flavor and crisp slightly around the edges.

The rice, thyme and mushrooms already have been described in luscious detail, but don’t forget the cheese! Specifically, the king of cheeses, Parmigiano Reggiano. The cheese boasts a nutty and well-seasoned taste which elevates the other ingredients with a regal silkiness.

The risotto is an affirming way to get through days which still are chilly. It warms the soul with a comforting reminder balminess and sunshine are on their way. Until then, herbs are harvested from the limited indoor supply. Definitely a worthy investment. Their highest calling, in fact. It’s…thyme well spent.

*****

Fittingly, today’s Spoonflower fabric features a sea of thyme. A creation called, aptly, “Thyme on Mustard,” which artist Catherine Drayer imagined.

*****

Risotto with Mushrooms and Thyme

For the risotto:

• 1 tablespoon salt, plus more
• 6 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 large white onion, finely chopped (*1)
• 2 cups carnaroli rice (*2)
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into piences
• 2 ounces Parmesan cheese, finely grated (*3)

For the topping:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 pound mushrooms, trimmed, caps cut into two-inch pieces (*4)
• salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 5 sprigs thyme
• 5 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar (*5)
• 1 ounce Parmesan cheese, finely grated (*3)

Start with the risotto. In a medium pot, combine a tablespoon of salt and ten cups of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce salt to maintain a bare simmer.

Meanwhile, in a Dutch oven set over medium heat, pour in the oil. When it shimmers, add the onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent and is beginning to soften, six to eight minutes. Add 1/2 cup water and cook, stirring often, until water evaporates and the onion is tender and is sizzling in oil, about five minutes. Taste the onion, and if it’s still firm at all, adda spash of water and continue to cook until meltingly soft.

Add rice and stir well to coat with oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until grains are translucent around the edges and they make a clattering sound when they hit against the pot, about five minutes. Add wine and another pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wine evaporates, about two minutes.

Reduce heat to medium, then add hot salted water to rice in 3/4-cup increments, stirring constantly and allowing liquid to absorb fully before adding more, until rice is al dente and suspended in a fluid, not too thick creamy liquid, 25-30 minutes. It should take two to three minutes for each addition to be absorbed. You may not need all of the hot water, but the finished texture should be more of a liquid than a solid. Take care not to overcook!

Remove pot from the heat, add butter, and stir until melted. Gradually add the Parmesan, stirring until the cheese is melted and liquid is creamy, but very loose. Stir in more hot salted water if needed. Taste and season with more salt.

Next, move on to making the topping. In a large skillet set over medium-high, heat oil until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook, tossing occasionally, until they soften and begin to soften and release some liquid, about three minutes. Season with salt and pepper; cook, tossing occasionally, until deeply browned and tender, 8-10 minutes. Add thyme, garlic ang butter and cook, tossing occasionally, until garlic softens and butter is golden brown, about three minutes. Remove from heat and add vinegar. Toss to coat, scraping up any browned bits. Pluck out thyme.

Divide risotto among warm bowls. Top each with a few grinds of pepper and spoon mushroom mixture over. Serve with Parmesan alongside.

NOTES:

1 – Really, if it doesn’t matter how your risotto tastes, an onion is okay. However, if you want people to treasure your cooking forever, make it one large shallot. Your reputation awaits.

2 – If you can’t find carnaroli rice, Japanese sushi-grade rice is a good substitute. In a pinch, even, Spanish bomba (i.e., paella) rice will serve, or even arborio.

3 – Standard Parmesan cheese will work, but if you have a dollar or two extra, splurge on the good stuff, Parmigiano Reggiano. You’ll be so glad you did.

Whatever you do, don’t use that dreadful sawdust in a green can.

4 – I chose a mixture of crimini and shitake mushrooms. If you like, you also can add or substitute maitake mushrooms.

5 – Or, a similar quantity of fresh lemon juice would be good too.